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    3D printed 1:28 rc car

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    3D printed 1:28 rc car

    3D printed 1:28 rc car

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    This is a work in progress and subject to change.
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    I did not design this project, it was designed by Guaro3d.
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    Sourcing

    Most of the components for this build are very common components. I had most of the electronics already on hand from combat robot builds. Many of the parts are not available individually and may need to be purchased in larger packs in order keep the price down, no worries though, I am sure they will be useful for other projects in the future (or build multiples of these).

    Stainless Steel Rods

    Component
    Source
    Cost
    1mm stainless steel rod
    Amazon
    $5.99
    2mm stainless steel rod
    Amazon
    $6.99
    3mm stainless steel rod
    Amazon
    $8.49

    ESC Options

    Component
    Source
    Cost
    Scorpion Nano Dual ESC
    ItGresa
    $34.99
    Tiny ESC v2
    ItGresa
    $27.00

    130 Motor Options

    Component
    RPM
    Source
    Cost
    OOD Valkyrie
    35,000 @ 11.1v
    OutOfDarts
    $3.00
    OOD Rhino
    36,000 @ 11.1v
    OutOfDarts
    $5.00
    OOD Meishel 2.0
    33,000 @ 7.4v
    OutOfDarts
    $3.00
    OOD Kraken
    35000 @ 12v
    OutOfDarts
    $8.00
    Generic 130 Motor
    25000 @ 12v
    Amazon
    $12.99 (for 10 motors)

    SG90 Servo

    Component
    Source
    Cost
    SG90 Servo
    Amazon
    $10.99 (for 5 servos)

    Battery Options

    Hardware

    Component
    Quantity Needed
    Source
    Cost
    683ZZ
    8
    Amazon
    $9.49
    M2 x 16 SHCS
    4
    Bolt Depot
    $12.76 (for 100)
    M2 x 14 SHCS
    6
    Bolt Depot
    $11.94 (for 100)
    M2 x 8 SHCS
    9
    Bolt Depot
    $10.88 (for 100)
    M2.5 x 6 SHCS
    1
    Bolt Depot
    $12.32 (for 100)
    M1.6 x 4 Self Tapping
    4
    Amazon
    $12.99 (This is a kit of small screws)
    M3 Set Screw
    1
    Bolt Depot
    $0.11
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    SHCS is the acronym for Socket Head Cap Screw When a bearing is appended with ZZ the bearing has a metal seal on both sides. Sometimes this is listed as 2Z instead.
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    I tend to order bulk hardware and store it for projects but sometimes it is cheaper to buy a hardware kit to save on shipping. This M2 Hardware Kit has all the M2 bolts for this build.

    Misc

    Component
    Source
    Cost
    6x3mm Magnet
    Amazon
    $13.99 (for 200)
    5x10mm spring
    Amazon
    $8.49 (for 10)
    ‣

    Fabrication

    TPU 3D Prints

    TPU_Parts.3mf504.8KB
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    ABS Chassis Parts

    ABS_Rigid_Chassis_001.3mf4226.0KB
    Printing the chassis in ABS (I may jump to nylon or polycarbonate if the project works out)
    Printing the chassis in ABS (I may jump to nylon or polycarbonate if the project works out)
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    image
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    Couldn’t help myself, I had to get a peek at what it is going to look like
    Couldn’t help myself, I had to get a peek at what it is going to look like
    All the fresh components added to the storage container
    All the fresh components added to the storage container

    ABS Body Print

    Quite a bit of supports. If I had an SLA printer I would utilize it here for the extra smoothness.
    Quite a bit of supports. If I had an SLA printer I would utilize it here for the extra smoothness.
    Start of the body print.
    Start of the body print.
    Looks like I will have to try that one again, this time with the filament runout sensor on…
    Looks like I will have to try that one again, this time with the filament runout sensor on…
    A few parts came out complete
    A few parts came out complete
    Incomplete body part
    Incomplete body part

    After reviewing how the parts from the previous print I noticed that a few could be orientated for a better finish as well. A few quick adjustments later and here is the new layout.

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    Printed in black ABS.  Supports removed, but no other post processing done.
    Printed in black ABS. Supports removed, but no other post processing done.
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    image
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    Assembly

    Instructions Open Z v30 Chassis v1.pdf2674.6KB

    Rear Differential

    The rear differential components after some post processing
    The rear differential components after some post processing
    Quick dry fit
    Quick dry fit
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    The differential gears with the 1x5mm pins installed.  The pins are inserted in the center hole and pushed through the smaller gears.
    The differential gears with the 1x5mm pins installed. The pins are inserted in the center hole and pushed through the smaller gears.

    Assembling the Chassis Components

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    image
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    A quick sneak peek of what is to come!
    A quick sneak peek of what is to come!
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    image
    image
    ‣

    Modding

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    Silicone Tube Wheel - Planned Mod

    The same silicone tubing I use for combat robot wheels should also work as a replacement tread for these cars. Taking a quick look through the McMaster-Carr listings and after measuring the current tires, this tubing should do the trick. The 35A tubing should make for a very grippy wheel. My intention would be to place these on the front wheels with the stock TPU wheels on the back to make the cars drift more readily. Utilizing these tires in the front and the back should create an car that has higher acceleration and handling due to the extra grip. This may prove to be to much grip though and could actually hurt the overall performance. This 50A tubing may be better for the rear wheels to allow for a some slippage to keep the handling smooth and predictable.

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    Replacement Bodies

    I plan on making a few of these so I will naturally need a few more body kits. I think a Nissan GTR and maybe a Mitsubishi Evo are in order.

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    Tail and Headlights

    Driving around in a dark room can be a pain without headlights. There are two additional channels on the receiver that could be utilized for tail and headlights to have individual control. The head lights can be linked to a toggle switch on the controller, allowing on and off control. The tail lights can be linked to an additional toggle, allowing for on and off control, but… here is where it gets cool. The taillights could be set to lower PWM value by default, something around 10-20% of full. When the throttle input is at zero or reversed the lights could be sent a higher PWM value to increase their brightness, effectively making brake lights.